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Black Hairpin with Flowers, N.d.
Lacquer with Bronze and Mother of Pearl on Unidentified Material
5 3/4 in. (14.6 cm)

Object Type: Hair Ornamentation
Technique: Carving
Creation Place: Asia, Japan
Credit Line: Gift of Dr. Ralph Riffenburgh, in honor of Angelyn Kelley Riffenburgh
Accession Number: 2013.7.91

These Japanese hair ornaments were collected by the late Angelyn Kelley Riffenburgh over decades. Angelyn’s husband, Dr. Ralph Riffenburgh, presented the combs in her honor to the Scripps College collections in 2012. Most of these hair ornaments, or kanzashi, are made of bamboo or lightweight woods that have been lacquered; they date from the 18th century well into the 20th, when elaborate hairstyles included decorative combs (kushi) and hairpins (kogai). Matched sets of ornaments featured seasonal images, landscape scenes, as well as historical or fictional references. The combination of pine, bamboo (nanten), and plum blossom (shochikubai) designs were popular at New Year’s time. Cherry blossom patterns were worn in the spring, and chrysanthemums in the autumn. Some kanzashi were made with tortoiseshell, mother of pearl, bone, or precious metals. Hairpins with a ball ornament, or tama, were also color coordinated to the seasons, with the cool colors green and blue worn during the summer months and the warm colors red, orange, and gold used during the winter. --Bruce Coats, Professor of Art History and the Humanities

The artist's mark, divided where the two halves come together, reads "Gyokusai."

The hairpin is made of a lacquered, unidentified material inlaid with mother of pearl and bronze.

Object Description
The hairpin, or kogai, features generic flowers and stripes against a black background. This piece raises interesting research questions regarding the manufacturing methods of these combs. Dr. Juli Wolfgram's initial impression is that the original bridge (the "sword" or stem of the kogai) broke and metal was used to repair it; or perhaps the materials are the original ones.

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