Black and Gold Hairpin with Flowers and Ivy, N.d.
Lacquer with Gold and Mother of Pearl on Horse hoof
6 5/16 in. (16 cm)
These Japanese hair ornaments were collected by the late Angelyn Kelley Riffenburgh over decades. Angelyn’s husband, Dr. Ralph Riffenburgh, presented the combs in her honor to the Scripps College collections in 2012. Most of these hair ornaments, or kanzashi, are made of bamboo or lightweight woods that have been lacquered; they date from the 18th century well into the 20th, when elaborate hairstyles included decorative combs (kushi) and hairpins (kogai). Matched sets of ornaments featured seasonal images, landscape scenes, as well as historical or fictional references. The combination of pine, bamboo (nanten), and plum blossom (shochikubai) designs were popular at New Year’s time. Cherry blossom patterns were worn in the spring, and chrysanthemums in the autumn. Some kanzashi were made with tortoiseshell, mother of pearl, bone, or precious metals. Hairpins with a ball ornament, or tama, were also color coordinated to the seasons, with the cool colors green and blue worn during the summer months and the warm colors red, orange, and gold used during the winter. --Bruce Coats, Professor of Art History and the Humanities
The comb is made of lacquered horse's hoof with inlaid gold flecks, mother of pearl, and sprinkled gold dust.
The black bar in the center is sprinkled with gold dust; the horse's hoof caps on the end are lacquered with gold and the ivy leaf shapes are inlaid with mother of pearl. There are also unidentified flowers, perhaps dianthus and Chinese bellflower. The kogai is a two-part, dumbbell shape.
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