Woman's jacket (haori)
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Woman's jacket (haori), 1950-1960
41 1/2 in. x 51 1/2 in. (105.41 cm x 130.81 cm)
Black silk crepe (chirimen).
Woman’s black silk crepe traveling coat (haori). The inside damask lining of the haori is much more colorful than the plain black exterior. It is lined in black silk crepe below the waist, and in polychrome silk crepe above the waist. The upper lining mostly uses yuzen dyeing to create a pattern of green fields and colored clouds in shades of purple, brown, and white. The paste-resist technique of yuzen allowed dyers to create sharply detailed, painted images on silk. The upper lining also has a crisscross pattern of unspun silk wefts dyed to match the background. There are stamped birds and butterflies in blue and red against the background of clouds and flowers. It has three round family crests (mon), one at the base of the neck, and one each on the back shoulder. The small, circular crests employ a “tassel” (gyoyo) design, a pattern with origins in Southwest Asia that traveled to T’ang China before reaching Japan. The design closely resembles the tassels attached to horses’ bridles and saddles. Made of light silk crepe, this haori was probably intended for summer wear. Its dark color is typical of Japanese menswear.
- Written by Anna Gaumond, Scripps '09, Fall 2008; edited by Patricia Yu, Pomona '09, Getty Summer Intern, August 2008.
For more information on crests (mon):
Dower, John W. The Elements of Japanese Design: A Handbook of Family Crests, Heraldry & Symbolism. New York: Walker/Weatherhill, 1971.
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